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Archive for the ‘Dog behaviour’ Category

How do I stop my dogs from peeing overnight in the house?

Posted by Tony Sarma - The Vetspert on the 10th February 2010

Elizabeth asked the petsperts®:

“How do I get my 2 20 month old Chocolate labradors completely dry at night? No problems during the day, but never completely reliable at night since we’ve had them at 8 weeks. They both go out last thing and have a wee in our garden but then I can come down in the morning to find more wee on newspaper that I leave down and then put out in the garden. Also one of them poos overnight generally - how do I adjust his two feeds in the day to ensure he does not poo overnight? I keep a diary and we have not had a completely dry night since 20 January - please help!”

Hi Liz,

This is a really nasty problem to live with, and I really sympathise with you. I’ve had a bit of experience with this myself; Homer’s liver problem meant that I needed to take him for walks every two hours including overnight for many years, while my rescue Rottweiler was a little “confused” when I first got him and proceeded to use my mother’s home as a toilet. Of course, him being cuter than me, mother yelled at me instead.

Thankfully, my dogs’ problems and the reasons for them were really obvious to start with. In your case, it’s a little less clear cut. The first thing we need to do is work out who the culprit / culprits are. Separate them out overnight (in different rooms, protecting carpets as best you can - I find combinations of plastic sheeting or binbags and newspaper useful!). If you do this for a few nights, they won’t like it but you should soon get a feel for who’s doing what.

A large number (up to 50%) of behaviour problems can have a root in some actual bodily disease process, so that’s the next thing to consider. Particularly with inappropriate urination in young dogs, there are a large number of possible causes - however, the answers to the questions you kindly took the time over for me suggest that bodily disease is less likely. The history of infection is a concern - an ongoing low-grade infection could cause inappropriate urination, but it could also have just kick-started a bad habit of peeing in the wrong place.

Peeing too much can be linked with drinking too much - normal levels of water intake are 50-100ml per kilogramme of dog over 24 hours, on the lower end of the scale if the food is moist, on the higher end if it is unmoistened dry food. I suspect that the levels you mention are about normal, but it would be worth re-checking for each dog as an individual, again by separating them out for 24 hours if possible.

In an ideal world, we rule out all chances of bodily disease by screening the perpetrator once we know who our criminal doggy is. Urine tests including microscopy and blood tests are an obvious choice, and faecal analysis may be helpful to rule out gut problems. This does get expensive, and unless the doggy is showing specific signs on examination by your vet, it’s largely done expecting to find not much, just to prove that the problem is definitely not a subclinical issue. Any specific clinical signs will lead to specific investigations - but your story suggests that there won’t be much there. Still, better to check than to miss something!

That leaves my suspicion that these are behavioural specifically, but before I wax lyrical on those (or even better, get my colleague Dr. Roger Mugford to do so, as one of the best in the behaviour business). For the moment, I’ll give you the advice that the dogs must be totally over-loved and treated (lotsa hugs, high-value treats - stuff they REALLY like) when they go to the toilet in the right place, make sure they get a walk out to go regularly especially last thing at night and after meals, and just get them used to feeling good about holding it in and going in the right place. Never tell them off for going in the wrong place - things like rubbing their noses in it are frequently talked about but tend to traumatise the hound and make him scared of going to the toilet AT ALL, rather than making them understand where the boundaries are. (Again, my Homer had this treatment from some previous owners, and it took *ages* to get him right - 9 year on, the poor boy still tells you he wants to go to the toilet by acting like a dog who’s been scolded severely!)

If you can get answers to some of the stuff I’ve mentioned, and then see your vet, they should be able to help you. Let us know how you get on - good luck.

Tony x
Resident Vet and petspert® at Chewed Slippers

Tony was able to come to the conclusions above using the following answers that Elizabeth provided:

1. Both dogs are nearly 2, can you confirm? male/female? neutered or not?
Toffee and Fudge were born in May 2008 and we got them in the July, so they are now about 21 months old. They are brothers and were neutered in Jan 2009.

2. Where are they kept, day and night?
I work Wed pm, Thursday and Friday, so the early part of the week when I am at home they are kept in the house except when I go out for 2 or 3 hours when I generally leave them in their outdoor run which has a kennel. At night they are kept in our utility room - they were not crate trained as we have no room in the utility room for 2 crates and we did not do it for our other 2 dogs. When I am at work they are in the run all day and can therefore urinate and defecate when they please. They NEVER mess in the house during the day even in the utility room.

3. When are they walked? What access to the toilet do they have?
My husband takes them out first thing in the morning for about 10 minutes for a run about and them I take them out for about an hour in the afternoon. I will let them out mid morning to see if they wish to go - sometimes Fudge does. When I am at work I have a dog walker who takes them out for ¾ hour, again in the early afternoon. They do not always poo on these walks but generally pee. I will then let them out after their evening feed about 6pm so they can run around the garden and pee/poo if they wish. At the weekend they have two longer walks - up to an hour each.

Access outside is variable but Fudge will often ask to go out and if he does I let him out and he pees, Toffee also goes out but does not always pee and he does seem to be able to hold it better than Fudge. Fudge may pee once every 4 hours or so, Toffee holds it longer.

4. when did problems start?
We never got them properly housetrained at the start - we started to get dry nights about Aug 2008, but we went on holiday for a long weekend at the end of November 2008 and left them in kennels so although after that we got dry nights say 3 out of 7 we could not guarantee it. This carried on throughout the first part of 2009 and during the summer things got a lot better having on one occasion 18 dry nights on the trot (I kept and still keep a diary of all this).

Then things went downhill because Toffee got a bladder infection in August 2009 which took 6 weeks to clear up - he was only dry during that time when he was on antibiotics and it took 3 different types before the infection went. However the dry nights did not return. By Jan 2010 they could be dry for up to 3 nights at a time (this is pee and poo) - when they were not dry sometimes there was just one wee or poo or 2 wees and 2 poos - any combination really. Things are bad at present - the last totally dry night was 20th Jan. We know that they have held it for 9 ½ hours when we overslept one night! According to the kennels where we leave them they are generally dry overnight.

We obviously don’t know for certain who is responsible - often I think it is Fudge responsible for the wee as Toffee will go out first thing and wee and generally poo as well but Fudge sometimes won’t pee first thing or poo. My husband always takes them out last thing at night (I won’t let them out after 6pm as I want them to be desperate to go) but even if they both wee then there is often wet newspaper in the morning.

I have tried to restart their toilet training by putting down newspaper and then leaving the soiled stuff outside in the morning. However this has not worked. I tried no newspaper but then I had an even bigger job clearing up. I always use biological washing powder to wash the floor.

5. How much water do they drink in a 24 hour period? What’s the rest of their diet? Are motions normal?
They drink about 2 litres each of water in a 24hour period and they have about 300gms each dry Royal Canin Labrador Retriever food split into two meals, one in the morning and one in the evening. Is this OK - neither are overweight - Fudge is about 30 Kilos, Toffee about 28 Kgs. Their motions are always normal. My own vet nurse told me I should adjust the dry food to try and get rid of the pooing at night but I can not work out whether the poo at night is the day before’s breakfast or evening meal so I’m not sure which to cut down. Are two meals a day better for dogs of this size than one meal a day? We started dampening the food as advised by vet nurse and this does not seem to have affected the situation.

6. Is urine found only after lying down? Do they ever seem unaware that they’re urinating? Do they dribble urine when they’re walking about?
I only ever find the urine in the utility room in the morning, they don’t dribble whilst they are walking about. They have never cocked their legs and always squat but I have been told this is not significant.

7. Are they able to initiate urination ok normally? Does urine look normal?
They appear to initiate urination normally and their urine samples were both tested last October by my vet and were normal.

8. When walking to they urinate with normal frequency and produce normal amounts?
They generally urinate once whilst walking (sometimes twice). The amounts look OK.

9. Do they have any other behaviour issues (e.g. anxiety problems)?
I don’t think they are anxious - when in the house they spend most of their time asleep! I’m the anxious one!!

Problem with dogs chewing the furniture

Posted by Roger Mugford - The Mindspert on the 8th December 2009

Jackie has a problem with her dogs chewing the furniture. She asked the petsperts®:

“We have two rescued dogs, a very well behaved 6 year old English Bull Terrier x Dalmation and an 8 month old American Bulldog (parents were Pedigree Johnsons American Bulldogs).

She is going through a very chewy stage, even if left for a few minutes. She has destroyed their beds, blankets, the sofas and the TV stand. We cannot seem to stop her chewing things. We have tried sprays on the furniture to no avail. Please help.”

Hi Jackie,

Don’t despair! Many young dogs (and almost all Labradors) go through this extraordinary and very expensive oral phase, which can be likened to an obsession and an oral stereotypy just as in young children that never grow out of the dummy sucking phase.

First the good news: most such dogs self- resolve with no need for intervention or systematic therapy.

But the bad news is that some DONT get better: they continue to be at risk and make expensive companions!

This is my advice:

1. No matter what the provocation, do not punish her when you return AFTER the damage has been done (i.e. if the chewing was not witnessed).

2. Switch ALL feeding to a hard-to-get-at slow dispense system via Kongs or similar device (you will need at least an XL size in both the standard red Kong + a giant dental Kong). These can be filled with your dogs standard rations, which if a dry kibble should be wetted and frozen. This will give her a chewing challenge to maintain normal food intake. She may need to have up to 10 such double Kong chew episodes, i.e. 10 meals per day and that will be hard work!

KONG Stuffable Dog Chew Toy

3. Teach her that items made from wood, fabric etc are strictly out of bounds, to be removed by you with a scold, possibly with overt or better covert punishment. An example of the former might be to shake or throw a rattle can when she picks up the “forbidden” item, or covertly the hiss of a Pet Corrector spray.

4 Most important of all is that this young bitch has an interesting and exhausting life: lots of walks, games and training and having positive interactions with you the owner.

5. Then there is the possibility of crate training, or environmental restriction. If you didn’t start off with crate training when she was a young puppy, she will probably find it stressful now. However, there may be a room or space that is clear of tempting items, which with chewable toys like the Kong, can still make a pleasant environment for the dog.

6. Finally, it may be that your dog is simply missing human company and being alone in the house distresses her. There are well tried and tested ways of reducing these over-attachments . Visit my website for advice on treating separation disorders in dogs: www.companyofanimals.co.uk .

Good luck and write again if further help is needed.

Roger Mugford
Animal Psychologist and petspert®

How long does it take for a change in dog food to affect behaviour?

Posted by David Jackson - The Foodspert on the 4th November 2009

Gemma asked the Petsperts:

“I am a third year student at Liverpool John Moores University studying for my final year honours project. I am doing a study to see how different foods affect the behaviour of dogs.

I was wondering if you could please help me on a few questions:
1) How long should I take in changing over a dog’s food?
2) How long do you expect after doing so to see an effect on their behaviour?”

Hi Gemma,

Hopefully these answers will shed some light on your questions:

1) How long should I take in changing over a dog’s food?

Because different enzymes are produced in response to the ingestion of different foods and because in time a dog’s digestive system can become accustomed to particular ingredients, it is always best to introduce a new food gradually, mixing it in gradually, increasing proportions with the former food over at least 3 days. For dogs prone to digestive problems this can be extended to 7-10 days.

2) How long do you expect after doing so to see an effect on their behaviour?

Behavioural changes following a dietary change are generally quite quick to manifest. Hyperactivity is usually a direct consequence of inappropriate diet. By simply removing chemical additives (especially colourings and preservatives) from a dog’s diet or by reducing excessive protein and sugar levels, a hyperactive dog’s energy levels often begin returning to normal within just a few days.

Other behavioural problems such as aggression and nervousness, although rarely caused by diet, are often exacerbated by poor diet. For those dogs affected by behavioural issues, owners should look to provide a good quality, low protein (~20% for dry foods), natural food with no added sugars. In the treatment of many behavioural issues, many nutritionists seek to increase the levels of serotonin production (a neurotransmitter that has a generally calming effect in mammals) through diet. Many vegetables contain fairly high serotonin levels while whole grains like brown rice have been shown to stimulate serotonin production. Fish based diets like the Natural Dog Food Company’s All in One Salmon foods with their high levels of tryptophan - from which serotonin is made - make perfect diets for dogs suffering from behavioural problems.

Regular exercise, as well as using up some of the dog’s excess energy, also promotes the release of serotonin, resulting in a happier, calmer dog. After making these changes to a problematic dog’s diet and lifestyle, many owners will start to see significant improvements within as little as 3-4 days.

Best of luck with your studies Gemma!

David
Food Petspert

Beating Fireworks - Roger Mugford’s Top Tips

Posted by Roger Mugford - The Mindspert on the 29th October 2009

Fireworks - great for humans, scary for dogs!

The firework season seems to be getting longer each year, from October through to New Year in many places, so bangs and flashes are impossible to avoid.

Instead of trying to hide from them this year, arm yourself with my top tips and face the fireworks fully prepared to make it as stress-free as possible for the whole family.

1// Start preparation early, don’t wait for your dog to become distressed.

2// Close your curtains and put the lights on to disguise flashes and play music to cover up loud noises.

3// Don’t give your pet too much sympathy. He is more likely to see your increased attention as a sign that he is right to be frightened.

4// Provide a safe place for your dog to use as a den. You could use a dog crate covered on three sides with a blanket for extra comfort.

5// Make sure your dog has lots of exercise during the day. If he is physically tired he is more likely to relax in the evening.

6// Provide your dog with something to keep him occupied so he is less likely to notice what is happening outside. A stuffed KONG toy is perfect for this because you can fill it with your pet’s favourite treats for him to enjoy in his den. While he is concentrating on how to get them out he is less likely to notice the bangs and flashes outside.

7// There are sedatives available for severely affected pets but you might prefer to try alternative approaches, such as using a plug in DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) diffuser in the den area that gives off a calming smell. A homoeopathic treatment for pets called Anxiety deals with just that and has a 70 per cent efficacy. Due to Anxiety’s unique composition it is not possible to overdose on it so it is safe for owners to administer themselves.

8// Try to be calm yourself. If you are stressed your pet will pick up on it and will be more anxious.

9// Pets love the familiarity and stability of routine so carry on as normal to improve your pet’s confidence.

10// Behaviour modification is the best way to permanently rid your pet of a firework phobia but this takes time. Try desensitising your pet to loud bangs and crashes, with the CLIX Noises and Sounds CD for behaviour therapy.

Enjoy the fireworks season!

Roger
Dr. Roger Mugford

Lusty new play pals will learn to play nicely

Posted by Roger Mugford - The Mindspert on the 28th September 2009

Cynthia asked the Petsperts:

“After my 15 year old male Lab died I rescued another female Labrador cross 3 weeks ago. She is 4 years approx, has obviously had puppies and was spayed 3 days before I took her. I always walk with a friend, twice a day, with her large 9 year old male. For 3 weeks he has blanked her but now he just will not leave her alone. Is it a male dominance issue? So how do you work with that? He is twice her size and very strong. She has held her own on the streets until now and doesn’t want any more males bothering her, so tries to get him away. Our fear is that he will end up hurting her back if nothing else. We tried to let them sort it out but in the end Poppy was getting distressed.What can we do?”

Dear Lab enthusiast,

It has taken an unusually long 3 weeks for mere toleration of your new young bitch to become infatuation by your friends old dog. Rejoice! It should work out just fine as their play becomes better synchronised and more complex as time passes. It is a joy to have dogs with integrated behaviours like this, and helps you to get over the loss of your previous dog.

Do come back to me if the problem persists in a few weeks.

Roger

The Animal Behaviour Centre

Miniature Dachshunds … little beasties deep down?

Posted by Tony Sarma - The Vetspert on the 6th August 2009

Miniature Dachshunds

Jane asked the Petsperts®:

“I really want a miniature sausage dog - is it true that they have an aggressive nature?”

Hi Jane,

Speaking as a bloke of 5′6″, the phenomenon of “Small Man Syndrome” has always been interesting to me; small doggies (like us midget blokes) frequently get a bad press for being “snappy”!

Certainly Jack Russells and terriers are prone to that; but personally I think that, like children, it’s all down to the upbringing. This question made me stop and think about all the Dachshunds I know - I don’t actually think I’ve ever seen a truly nasty one! Nearly all of them have been quite sweet.

So, no, it’s not something I’d think of. But you do need to make sure you check up on the various problems these dogs are prone to - get insurance, spinal injuries in particular can cost fortunes with these guys. Make sure you’re covered to at LEAST £2500 per condition, to give you an idea of what sort of bills you can get!

I actually checked with a friend of mine who exclusively looks after dogs with spinal problems (so sees a LOT of Dachshunds); he said he has seen nasty Dachshunds, but “rarely”.

So, temperament probably not a problem - but be warned, lovely as they are, they can be expensive in vet bills!

All the best!

Tony

Roger Mugford’s Introduction to the Social Side of Dogs

Posted by Roger Mugford - The Mindspert on the 14th July 2009

Roger with PC

Rather than go on about me, I thought I’d tell you more about what I know and love – dogs and what makes them tick!

We all know that dogs are pack animals, meaning that they live for the group or the proverbial “one for all, all for one”.  That very sociability has made it easier for the wolf’s early domesticators to transfer inherent loyalty between wolves to a loyalty towards man.  We adore the outcome of that long ago domestication with a passion given to no other domesticated species of animal.

I have been in practice as an animal psychologist for 30 years and the great majority of the 55,000 cases I have treated over this period were of misdirected or inadequate social behaviours.  Top of the list amongst pathological social behaviours is aggression towards other dogs.  Then there are dogs that bite people, be they strangers or members of the family.  If we explore the context in which these undesired or inappropriate social behaviours occur, some general principals on problem prevention become apparent.  That is what I will do over the course of my next 2 blog posts.

Socialisation

You may have heard of the experiments by Scott and Fuller in the 1950s.  They developed the concept of critical periods of socialisation, implying that there are distinct developmental phases that puppies go through.  Failure to form optimum social relationships before the age of say, 16 weeks are said to lead to a permanently damaged or socially incompetent adult dog. Missing out on the touchy-feely social exposures by a puppy will predispose it to become socially incompetent.

Fortunately, my pragmatic experience, over many years, points to so many exceptions to this deterministic viewpoint that I have to conclude that maybe Scott and Fuller were wrong!  There are not critical periods of socialisation, rather a continuous learning process that begins at birth (maybe even before birth) and runs into maturity or even old age. Practically speaking, rehabilitation of essentially feral dogs, bought in from the mountains of Afghanistan and where there was little contact with humans still allows these rescued domestic dogs to form trusting bonds with people.  The good news about this view is that dogs that are seemingly shy or antagonistic to people and/or to dogs can, broadly speaking, be rehabilitated.  So how do we go about this at my Animal Behaviour Centre?

You will have to wait until my next blog post for that! Other topics also still to come:

  • Who breeds bad dogs (puppy farms, pedigree breeders and all that)
  • Accessibility; who dreams up dog bans and decides where pets can travel, visit and enjoy
  • Breed specific legislation (myths and mysteries)
  • Dogs that are misunderstood; how changing the shape and colours of dogs affects their social responses.

Roger Mugford BSc PhD